Category Archives: Places we Visit-Year 1

(locations align with the map showing our route)

Mount St. Helens – on our “TOP 3” list!

While in Southern Washington we are staying in Chehalis so that we can visit both Mount St. Helens and Mt. Rainer.

We visited Mount St. Helens on a day that started off really cloudy and foggy and when we arrived at the visitors center we were fogged in.  We were concerned that we wouldn’t see anything but the rangers assured us that we would drive up through the fog and then it would be clear.  And, it was!

Mount St. Helens is not a real high mountain at 8,300 ft.  But, the crater…it’s HUGE!  It really did blast out the whole side of the mountain!

Jeff and I were both really impressed and decided that if we had a top 3 list of places we’d been to so far, this is on that list!  (the others are Yellowstone and Carlsbad Caverns).

We were surprised to find that the mountain is not being quiet right now.  It’s growing again!  Inside the huge crater is  dome that is building up and there’s a little amount of steam coming from it that is visible to the naked eye from the Johnston Ridge Observatory a few miles away.  There have been small eruptions since the big one in 1980 as well!  Yipes!!  People in this area talk about eruptions like we talk about earthquakes in Southern California…something to laugh about and maybe be prepared for, but not too scary.

In the pictures below I’ve labeled one that was taken before the eruption, one shortly afterward, and one that we took that shows how much the dome has grown since the eruption.  Also included are several more of the area including the devastation that still exists today for several miles around the volcano due to the ash (as deep as 20 feet in some places) and the downed trees that are still scattered all over the place.  The forests for several miles around are new forests, planted in the 80s to replace all that was totally destroyed when the mountain erupted.

 

A Whale Watching Tour – but no whales!

There are a LOT of islands up in the northern Puget sound area, and very few of them have roads and ferry service.  We thought about taking a ferry to one or two of the islands and then driving around, but after driving to and around a nearby island with a bridge and seeing nothing but trees…as the coastal area is all privately owned…we decided that the cost of a ferry ride to see more of the same wouldn’t be worth much.  Plus, the ferry rides are NOT cheap and are long (over an hour from Anacortes to San Juan).

So, we decided to take a whale watching tour instead!  Here the tours rarely leave the Puget Sound so we knew we’d see lots of coastlines, islands, etc. in addition to orcas and possibly gray whales.

Well, it turns out the day was very foggy along the sound, so we couldn’t go there and wouldn’t have seen anything had we gone.  Instead we got a tour of the northern part of the sound where it connects to Canadian waters.  We circled San Juan island and Orcas island as well as many smaller islands.  Many of the smaller islands have a population even though they don’t have roads, ferry service, electricity or water!  Folks who live on these islands must truck in their water and use generators, and have boats to get to the mainland.

Even though we saw no whales, we did see several bald eagles perched in trees, and many harbor seals.  We also saw some salmon pens where they raise salmon.  Very interesting and beautiful area!!

 

 

Mount Baker – a glacier capped mountain in Northern Washington

While in Northern Washington we took a day trip to see Mount Baker.  We can see it from the coast where we’re staying, jutting up high above the other mountains and hills that we can see from here.

It’s a beautiful mountain, dense forest filled with moss and ferns and waterways and waterfalls.  Then we came out from the heavy forest and were in the midst of several glaciers!  This trip was actually more interesting than going through the Glacier National Park, as here we were able to drive right into the glacier area.

During the ride I composed a haiku, and decided to start composing them as a sideline so you’ll see a new menu entry with this and one more I’ve composed recently.  Here’s my first:

Dark, dense forest,
moss and fern.
It clears –
Snow capped mountain
towers above.

Here are pictures:

 

Glacier National Park – very unique!

We’ve spent the last week at Glacier National Park – it’s a very unique place!

There are very few roads through the park, so you don’t get to see very much of it by car.  There are lots of trails, but most are several miles long and are strenuous, so we just opted to see what we could see from the road and a couple of short hikes.

There are only 25 glaciers left in the park – 100 years ago there were over 100!  Experts estimate that the glaciers will all be melted by 2030!

While there are still several glaciers to see, and at least one you can hike through, the major attraction is to see what the glaciers from thousands of years ago did to the mountains as they came through the area.  All the mountains within the park contain high, steep-sided mountains with huge horizontal gouges.  It becomes very obvious that something very big and relentless scraped its way through these mountains.

We took one hike that crossed several areas of deep snow.  I had tennis shoes on (I don’t have any boots) and the snow was very slick in the sun which made it very hard for me to move across the snow.  We didn’t go to the end of the hiking area because of that, unfortunately (I’m a wimp, I’ll admit it!)

Here are some pictures of the glaciers and the mountains:

Little Big Horn – I was surprised to find how ignorant I really was about what happened here!

The battle of the Little Big Horn aka Custer’s Last Stand.  I knew very little about this event, basically that Custer and his soldiers had a battle with some native Americans and lost and every man was massacred.

Well, it’s more complex than that!  Here’s what I know now about this event after spending a day at the Little Big Horn National Park:

The Sioux and Cheyenne tribes of Montana and Wyoming had been rounded up and put onto a very large reservation after some of their leaders signed a treaty.  The bison that they depended on for food, clothing and many other aspects of their lives were decimated and there were NONE on the reservation (the decimation of the bison is another story, but in a nutshell there were an estimated 8MILLION bison in North America in 1840 and only 500 left by 1890.  Native Americans didn’t do that, white man did!).

Sitting Bull, Crazy Horse and other native American leaders who had not signed the treaty  left the reservation and many others left with them.  In December of 1875 the government issued orders – they had 30 days to get back to the reservation or be considered hostiles, in which case they would be forced back or killed.  In the middle of the worst winter they had ever seen, there was no way to get the women and children back to the reservation even if they wanted to go (do you think the government did that on purpose?!?) and by June the government sent the cavalry out to get them.

Custer headed one of three commands sent to the area and he had approx. 500 men.  There was a command from the south with a little over 1000 men, and one from the west with under 500 men.  The command from the south engaged the native Americans first, were driven back easily and they decided to go back to Wyoming and go fishing (this is a true fact!)  Custer didn’t know that since there was no way to communicate among the three commands.  The command from the west arrived one day too late and to them fell the task of burying the dead.

So Custer, thinking there were two other commands headed towards the native Americans like he was doing, came to the camp.  They were astonished to find over 8,000 people, over 2,000 of them warriors in the camp.

Custer divided his command into three sections, and one struck first but was easily pushed back.  Custer’s section came from the north, but the native Americans had already routed the first section and rode north to face Custer’s men.  This was over 2,000 warriors vs. 263 men with Custer!   Custer sent runners to the other two sections saying “Come quickly, bring ammo” but they couldn’t get through.  Custer though the other commands would show up, they didn’t.

The battle was very one-sided.  Towards the end Custer ordered his men to dismount and shoot their horses to use them as barricades, but it was too late and this action stunned the native Americans into really thinking the white man was crazy, and they killed all the men in Custer’s section.  The other two sections were later surrounded and held under siege for over 24 hours until they gave up and were allowed to leave.

When the command from the west arrived, they and the survivors buried the dead soldiers where they lay.  Several years later the dead were all dug up and re-buried in one mass grave with a monument on top.  There were headstones placed where each man fell, which shows where the battle was fought.  The native Americans took their dead away, but later (like in the 1990s) some headstones were placed where stories from survivors said that it was likely that native Americans had fallen.

The news of this battle reached Washington DC two weeks later, in the middle of the 4th of July festivities on the 100th anniversary of the signing of the Declaration of Independence.  The news angered the government, who sent a much larger force west to subdue the native Americans.  They were subdued and forced back to the reservation, where almost half died of starvation the next winter while food that was sent to sustain them was withheld from them.

Personally, I’m shocked and saddened at the way the white Europeans treated the native Americans, here and elsewhere during the American history.

Anyway, the national park is fairly small and contains only part of  the site of the battle.  There’s also a Veteran’s Cemetery on the park, not related to this battle.  Veterans from the Spanish-American war, WWI and WWI, Korea and Vietnam are buried here.

The pictures below show the valley as seen from the site of the battlefield – you can imagine what it would have looked like with 8,000 people living in the valley, the grave markers (look closely, you can see several all over the hillside), and the grave marker of Custer (who was disinterred and taken back to Washington at a later date) and one of the Indian chiefs who died in the battle.  Also, there’s a picture of a native American sculpture that was erected along with walls showing some history of the Sioux and Cheyenne people that were engaged in the battle.

Black Hills Cavern – a privately owned cavern!

We visited a second cave in the Black Hills area called the Black Hills Cavern, this one a privately owned cavern instead of a National Park.  While it was in many ways very similar to the Wind Cave, we found that there were a lot of differences too.  This cavern had flooded totally in 1972 and it took a couple of years to drain it of all the water and mud.  That changed the way a lot of the formations look.

We also saw that there were a lot more mineral deposits around this cave.  Most likely gemstones as well, but even though privately held, this cavern is under federal protection and no mining can be done here.

Back during prohibition, moonshiners used the cavern to make their liquor and there are a few remnants of it – lots of black on the ceilings in one area where they had fires.

As it’s always been privately owned, the concrete that was poured to make the walkways is not as well maintained as a national park cave is, so it was more treacherous to walk the inclines and the stairways that were narrow and steep and having to duck to one side while going up or down was a bit nerve-racking!  But, they had guard rails and the guide was very good about cautioning us when we got to a place with potholes etc.  All-in-all, a fun and interesting cave to visit!

Here are some pictures:

Wind Cave – one of several caves in the Black Hills

We learned that there are several caves and caverns in the Black Hills.  We visited two of them, the first is Wind Cave (look for a post with pictures of the second one shortly).  It’s the first cave that became a National Park, back in 1905 and contains a huge area of land around the cave itself so that the forests and hills are protected.

There is a herd of bison in the national park, as well as lots of deer, antelope, and long-horn sheep.  We didn’t see many animals while driving to the cave though 🙁

But, the cave itself is interesting.  As with most of the caves in this area, there are very few stalagmites and stalactites due to a low amount of water seeping into the caves.  There are, however, formations called boxworks which were formed when carbolic acid (the mixture of water and CO2) seeped through the ground containing a mixture of fossilized sea creatures and gypsum, dissolving the fossils but was not acidy enough to dissolve the gypsum, so you’re left with lacy, spiderwebby looking formations.  Here is one picture of the boxworks:

And, here are more pictures of the cave:

Crazy Horse Memorial – have you ever heard of it?!?

There is a second huge stone monument in the process of being built in the Black Hills not too far from Mr. Rushmore.  It’s a memorial to Crazy Horse, a Lakota Sioux indian chief who refused to sign a treaty and move his people to a reservation and was stabbed in the back by a soldier while under a flag of truce when he was only 35 years old.

When the American Indians in this area learned about Mt. Rushmore they wanted to have a monument as well, to honor one of their heroes.  They asked a sculptor who had won some national awards to come and build it.  He started it in the 1940s and it’s still only partially done because it’s being done with NO federal money – it’s all donations!

The sculptor, Korczak Ziolkowski, first did a small sculpture, similar to how Mt. Rushmore was done, and then used it as a scale to calculate where each section of the mountain needed to be blasted and shaped.

Here is the Crazy Horse memorial with Mt. Rushmore alongside the head of Crazy Horse.  This is close to actual scale of the two monuments!  This shows how HUGE the Crazy Horse memorial will be when completed.

This next picture shows the small sculpture next to the mountain, to show what it will look like when completed:

And here’s a picture showing the mountain that is being carved:

 

Mt. Rushmore

While in South Dakota, we drove to Mt. Rushmore.  I always thought Mt. Rushmore was right next to the town of Sturgis, SD because I’d seen a commercial for the motorcycle rally that showed the main street of Sturgis and Mt. Rushmore was right there big as life.

Well, that was incorrect!  Mt. Rushmore is almost an hour from Sturgis and is way out in the middle of the Black Hills area.  Beautiful country though!  The road we took was very winding and narrow and had several places where the road actually looped around itself to gain height up/down the mountain!  Also, there were some tunnels that were one-lane…you drove to the entrance, stopped and looked and honked, and if nobody was coming you could go through the tunnel.  Interesting!!

Mt. Rushmore itself is very impressive!  It was built during the depression and created jobs for a lot of men.  There were several setbacks during the construction, one of which was a crack in the rock that required the face of Washington be shifted a bit in the middle of making it so the crack wouldn’t cause his nose to fall off (yipes!)

The visitors area is impressive – you park and walk up some stairs and through a sort of gateway and then – there it is!  Several people would just stop in their tracks right there to take a picture, so you have to watch where you’re going to avoid bumping into them LOL

Here are pictures we took of the mountain: